Table of Contents
oChef » History of Cookies: From Roman Dough to Modern Treats

History of Cookies: From Roman Dough to Modern Treats

Determining exactly where cookies come from involves looking back to ancient times, long before modern ovens existed. While many specific origins are lost to history, we can trace the evolution of the cookie from Roman fried doughs to the creamed-butter confections we enjoy today.

Much of what we know about early cookie history comes from food historians who analyze ancient texts and etymology. This guide explores how a simple paste of wheat and water evolved into the diverse array of biscuits and cookies found in kitchens around the world.

History of Cookies: From Roman Dough to Modern Treats

Ancient Origins

Tracing the very first cookie is difficult because many foods predated written cookbooks. However, food historians often look to the Roman era for the earliest recorded recipes that resemble what we might call a cookie today.

According to Alan Davidson’s The Oxford Companion to Food, the Roman chef Apicius provides one of the earliest known recipes. The method was quite different from modern baking:

  • A thick paste was made from fine wheat flour and boiled.
  • The mixture was spread out on a plate to dry and harden.
  • It was then cut up and fried until crisp.
  • The final dish was served with honey and pepper.

Another Roman variation involved a mixture of flour, water, sugar, and spices, which was also cut into pieces and fried. These early iterations were closer to fried doughs than the baked goods we know now.

The Meaning of Biscuit

The history of the cookie is deeply tied to the word “biscuit.” In the UK and many other parts of the world, this term is still the standard. The word provides a clue to how these items were originally made.

The term comes from the Latin panis biscotus, which translates to “bread twice cooked.” Historically, many sweet and savory biscuits were baked multiple times to ensure they were dry, crisp, and shelf-stable. In contrast, flat, pastry-style short cakes were typically baked only once and were already being produced by the 1500s.

European Evolution

During the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance, cookie-like treats began to diversify. Recipes for gingerbread, cracknels, and early precursors to meringue cookies started to appear and flourish.

By the 17th century, distinct styles emerged across Europe:

  • 1600s: Savoy cookies, made with egg white, sugar, and flour, originated in France.
  • Follow-up styles: Variations known as Lisbon biscuits, Naples biscuits, and Spanish biscuits soon followed, using similar base ingredients.
  • French Croquant: A crunchy French cookie evolved sometime before 1600.

The Rise of the Modern Cookie

The texture and preparation of cookies shifted significantly in the 18th century. Before this time, the texture was often harder or more cracker-like. The introduction of creaming butter and sugar together—a technique now standard in cookie baking—likely didn’t arrive until the 1700s. This method created a richer, softer crumb.

The 19th century brought a massive explosion in cookie varieties due to two main factors:

  1. The price of key ingredients like sugar and flour dropped, making them more accessible.
  2. Chemical leavening agents, such as baking soda, became available to home cooks and bakeries.

These changes paved the way for the manufactured cookie industry. Interestingly, while chocolate is a staple today, coating cookies in chocolate only became popular after World War II.

FAQ

What is the earliest recorded cookie recipe?

One of the earliest recipes is traced to the Roman chef Apicius. It involved boiling a thick wheat flour paste, drying it, frying it until crisp, and serving it with honey and pepper.

Why are cookies often called biscuits?

The word biscuit comes from the Latin panis biscotus, meaning “bread twice cooked.” This refers to the ancient practice of baking goods twice to make them crisp and long-lasting.

When did chocolate covered cookies become popular?

While chocolate itself has been around for centuries, the trend of coating cookies with chocolate largely became popular after World War II.